Pattern for Sailor's knitted cap, as per Mary Rose findings, XL size.

Sailors cap, per mary rose

Notes:

This hat is based on the extant hat from the Gagiana, detailed research and knitting pattern here: http://curiousfrau.com/2009/08/16/recreating-the-gagiana-barett/

I have extrapolated this pattern to knit a sailor’s cap based on extant examples from the Mary Rose.  In addition, alterations have been made to fit Master Giles Leabrook – XL sized hat for 61cm head.

Further details can be found on my blog at: http://quothwinter.blogspot.com/ including details of yarn used and experiments in felting the hat to achieve the correct look and size. Please also note that this hat should be lined, in accordance with the examples surviving from the Mary Rose.

Materials Needed

·       4 ozs Worsted and plied wool yarn, Cascade 220 recommended Historically accurate colors: Black, Red, Ash-colored (Grey), Liver-colored (Brown) and White

·         Set of 5, 7 inch double pointed knitting needles in US Size 5 (Metric size 3.75) , or size needed to reach a knitted in the round and fulled gauge of 10 stitches over 2 inches and 15 rows over 2 inches. Metric gauge, 6 stitches over 3cms and 6 rows over 3 cms

·         Large eyed yarn needle

Gagiana Barett Knitting Instructions

The Barett is made in these steps:
1. Inner crown to outer brim
2. Outer brim to inner crown
3. Two layers of the brim are joined into one
4. Increases for crown of barett
5. Crease made in edge of crown
6. Decreases to finish crown

Inner crown to outer brim

·         Cast on 132 stitches onto 4 needles, 33 stitches onto each needle.

·         Row 1 – 4 : Knit plain in the round

·         Row 5: Knit 7, increase 1 stitch underneath the next stitch, knit 1. Repeat for rest of round, until 4 stitches left, knit last 4 plain.
Stitch count at end of round= 148

·         Rows 5-9 Knit plain in the round

·         Row 10: Knit 8, increase 1 stitch underneath the next stitch, knit 1. Repeat for rest of round, until 4 stitches left, knit last 4 plain.
Stitch count at end of round= 164

·         Rows 11-14 Knit plain in the round

·         Row 15: Knit 9, increase 1 stitch underneath the next stitch, knit 1. Repeat for rest of round, until 4 stitches left, knit last 4 plain.
Stitch count at end of round= 180

Outer brim to inner crown

·         Row 16 – 19: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 20: Knit 9, k2tog. Repeat for rest of round
Stitch count at end of round= 164

·         Row 21-24: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 25: Knit 8, k2tog. Repeat for rest of round
Stitch count at end of round= 148

·         Row 26-29: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 30: Knit 7, k2tog. Repeat for rest of round.
Stitch count at end of round= 132

·         Row 31-34: Knit plain in the round

Two layers of the brim are joined into one.

The goal is to have the two edges joined into one smoothly, getting there can be a little sticky. Using point protectors to prevent the stitches slipping off the needles can save you a lot of frustration.

·         Row 35: Slip first stitch off needle purl wise onto crochet hook. Insert hook into cast on edge of brim, into the bottom of first stitch on the cast on edge, catch yarn and pull through cast on edge and stitch on hook, thus making a new stitch. Repeat for the rest of the row, making sure to move over one stitch in the cast on edge for every stitch you work. When you have about 10 stitches on the hook, slip them off the back onto the free double pointed needle.

·         Alternative joining method (I use this method as I find I’m incredibly clumsy with a crochet hook). Slip 1 stitch knitwise, pick up one stitch from cast on edge, pass slipped stitch over; repeat around.

Increases for crown

·         Row 36 – 39: Knit plain in the round. Row 36 doesn’t need to be untwisted, knit normally.

·         Row 40: Knit 7, increase 1 stitch underneath the next stitch, knit 1. Repeat for rest of round, until 4 stitches left, knit last 4 plain.
Stitch count at end of round= 148

·         Row 41 – 44 : Knit plain in the round

·         Row 45: Knit 8, increase 1 stitch underneath the next stitch, knit 1. Repeat for rest of round, until 4 stitches left, knit last 4 plain.
Stitch count at end of round= 164

·         Row 46 – 49: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 50: Knit 9, increase 1 stitch underneath the next stitch, knit 1. Repeat for rest of round, until 4 stitches left, knit last 4 plain.
Stitch count at end of round= 180

Crease made in edge of crown

·         Row 51: PURL one round
Note: This can be knitted, but you won’t get as sharp an edge. I prefer to KNIT this round and press it with an iron flat, after felting.

Decreases to center of crown and castoff!

·         Row 52-54: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 55: Knit 8, k2tog. Repeat for rest of round
Stitch count at end of round= 162

·         Row 56-59: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 60: Knit 7, k2tog. Repeat for rest of round
Stitch count at end of round= 144

·         Row 61-64: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 65: Knit 6, k2tog. Repeat for rest of round
Stitch count at end of round= 126

·         Row 66-69: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 70: Knit 5, k2tog. Repeat for rest of round.
Stitch count at end of round= 108

·         Row 71-74: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 75: Knit 4, k2tog. Repeat for rest of round
Stitch count at end of round= 90

·         Row 76-79: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 80: Knit 3, k2tog. Repeat for rest of round.
Stitch count at end of round= 72

·         Row 81-84: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 85: Knit 2, k2tog. Repeat for rest of round
Stitch count at end of round= 54

·         Row 86: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 87: Knit 1, k2tog. Repeat for rest of round.
Stitch count at end of round= 36

·         Row 88-89: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 90: Knit 1, k2tog. Repeat for rest of round.
Stitch count at end of round= 24

·         Row 901: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 92: Knit 1, k2tog. Repeat for rest of round.
Stitch count at end of round= 16

·         Row 93: Knit plain in the round

·         Row 94: Knit 1, k2tog. Repeat for rest of round.

·         Row 95: Knit plain in the round

·         Cut yarn 15 inches from work, thread needle with yarn and thread through remaining stitches. Weave yarn and any other loose yarn ends into the back the knitting and trim close.

Felt hat according to instructions from the Gagiana Barrett. http://curiousfrau.com/2009/08/16/recreating-the-gagiana-barett/

Georgia Winter / Honore Corbaut 2016.

http://quothwinter.blogspot.com.au/